Edited by Aj
Riesling can age for fifty years and still taste fresh. That’s not a marketing claim, it’s a documented characteristic of the grape, and it’s part of why serious wine collectors have quietly treasured it for decades while the rest of the world got distracted by Chardonnay. The other part? No other white grape spans such an enormous flavour range, from austere and dry to richly sweet, without losing what makes it distinctive.
But that range is also what confuses people. You pick up a bottle, and the label tells you almost nothing useful. Is it dry? Is it sweet? Will it taste like dessert? On Spiritly, we think understanding riesling properly is one of the most rewarding things a wine drinker can do, because once it clicks, a whole world of genuinely interesting bottles opens up.
What Makes Riesling Riesling
Riesling is a white grape variety originally from Germany, where it thrives in the steep, cool river valleys of regions like the Mosel. It has naturally high acidity, which is the bright, mouthwatering tartness you feel on the sides of your tongue. That acidity is what keeps riesling tasting vivid even when it’s sweet, and what allows it to age so well.
The grape itself is aromatic, meaning it produces strong, distinctive scents without any help from winemaking tricks. Think green apple, white peach, lime zest, and a stony, almost metallic quality sometimes called petrol or kerosene. That last note sounds alarming, but in context it’s fascinating rather than off-putting, a kind of waxy, complex depth that develops as the wine gets older.
New Zealand makes some excellent riesling, particularly in the South Island. Central Otago and the Waitaki Valley produce versions with real intensity and that characteristic minerality. Marlborough and Nelson contribute their own styles too, often leaning floral and citrus-forward.
The Three Myths That Put People Off Riesling
Myth one: riesling is always sweet. This is probably the most persistent misunderstanding about the grape. Germany produces enormous quantities of completely dry riesling, labelled Trocken (the German word for dry). Many Australian and New Zealand rieslings are also fully dry, with no perceptible sweetness at all. The assumption that all riesling tastes like sugar is simply wrong.
Myth two: if it tastes sweet, the quality must be lower. Sweet wine has an undeserved reputation as an afterthought. In reality, producing a well-balanced sweet riesling requires precise winemaking and exceptional fruit. German Spätlese and Auslese styles (terms that refer to how ripe the grapes were when picked) are considered some of the finest wines made anywhere in the world. The sweetness is balanced by that high natural acidity, so it doesn’t feel heavy or cloying.
Myth three: you can tell the sweetness level from the colour. You can’t. A pale, almost water-white riesling might be a rich dessert wine. A deeper golden one might be bone dry but aged for a decade. Colour in riesling reflects age and winemaking, not sugar level. The only reliable way to know is to check the label carefully, or just taste it.
Reading a Riesling Label Without a Degree in German
German labels use a ripeness scale called the Prädikat system. From least to most ripe at harvest, the main levels you’ll see are: Kabinett (lightest, often off-dry), Spätlese (riper, can be off-dry to medium-sweet), Auslese (richer, noticeably sweet), and then Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, which are rare, intensely sweet dessert wines made from individually selected or partially dried grapes. If you see Trocken on the label, that overrides the ripeness level and means the wine is dry.
New Zealand and Australian labels are more straightforward. Producers here often simply write “dry,” “off-dry,” or “medium” on the back label, or describe the style in plain language. If the label says nothing, a quick search of the producer’s website will usually tell you exactly where the wine sits on the sweetness scale.
How to Actually Taste Riesling
Pour it cold, around eight to ten degrees Celsius. Riesling served too warm loses its definition and starts to feel flat. Swirl it gently and take a slow sniff before you sip. You’re looking for that combination of fruit and stone, citrus or stone fruit depending on the style, and sometimes that distinctive waxy or petrol note in older bottles.
When you sip, pay attention to where the sweetness and acidity land. In a good riesling, neither dominates. The acidity cuts through the sweetness and keeps everything in balance. If it tastes one-dimensional or cloying, that’s a wine fault, not a feature of the grape. A well-made sweet riesling should still feel bright and refreshing by the end of the glass.
What to Try First
- Framingham Classic Riesling, Marlborough: A reliable off-dry example from a producer whose riesling vines, planted in 1981, are among Marlborough’s oldest. Citrus-driven and clean.
- Peregrine Riesling, Central Otago: Intense and mineral, with the stony character that makes South Island riesling distinctive.
- Felton Road Dry Riesling, Central Otago: One of New Zealand’s most respected wine producers makes a precise, elegant, nearly dry riesling worth seeking out.
- Dr. Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett, Mosel: A classic German example at the lighter, off-dry end of the scale. Green apple, slate, and delicate sweetness that doesn’t overpower.
- Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley: An Australian benchmark. Dry, tightly wound, and built to age, with lime and mineral notes that open up over time.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if a riesling is dry or sweet before I open it?
Check the back label first. Many producers, especially New Zealand ones, will say explicitly. For German bottles, look for the word Trocken to confirm dry, or use the Prädikat level as a rough guide. When in doubt, a quick search of the producer’s website will usually clarify the style.
Does riesling really smell like petrol?
Sometimes, yes, and it’s a good thing. The compound responsible is called TDN (1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene, if you want the full name), and it develops naturally as riesling ages. In young wines it’s barely there. In older bottles, particularly from Germany, it can be quite pronounced. Experienced drinkers often actively look for it as a sign of a wine with some years behind it.
Can riesling work with food?
It’s one of the most food-friendly white wines around. Dry riesling pairs well with fresh seafood, particularly anything with citrus or herbs. Off-dry styles are excellent alongside spiced dishes, Thai or Vietnamese food especially, where the slight sweetness balances chilli heat. Sweet riesling is a natural match for blue cheese or fruit-based desserts.
How long does riesling keep once opened?
Seal it and refrigerate it, and a dry riesling will hold well for two to three days. A sweeter style with higher residual sugar (the sugar that remains in the wine after fermentation) can last a little longer, up to four or five days, because sugar acts as a mild preservative. Either way, the sooner you finish it, the better it tastes.
